Nepali Birthday Party

Maya lives on the outskirts of the city, far from Leah's familiar streets. We take a wrong "choke" (intersection) and get into a pickle trying to turn around, but look at the view we would have missed if we had stayed on track!

We drive as far as we can and then climb out for a short hike in to Maya's house. But the path is a mini river, so we get creative. Through a neighbor's porch and garden, only to get stuck at their locked back gate. We smile sweetly and "Namaste" to a young girl, as if it's perfectly normal for her to run into a couple of white "bideshis" in her own back yard. She smiles back and trots after the key. I snap photos while we wait.

Rice is a beautiful crop. I didn't know that. Did you?

The river runs beside the path here, which we find extremely convenient!

Hard to believe we were battling our way through the streets of Kathmandu less than an hour ago.

We need to keep moving, but I keep stopping for just one more shot. Poor Maya.

This little building houses a Bible club for kids, Leah tells me. "Jaymase!" She calls to the lady who hosts the club. Jaymase, Leah explains, is a greeting used only by Christians in Nepal, and is loosely interpreted: "Joy in Jesus." To use jaymase is to confess belief in Christ. A beautiful young woman in a red and gold Kurta has been following us on the trail for some time, eyes downcast. She lights up when she overhears the brief exchange. "Jaymase!" She greets Leah. 

Maya's house at last! Just ahead on the right.

A beaming birthday girl / cook / hostess greets us with the selfless concern that in the time we lost taking the wrong turn, we may have gotten hungry.

Everyone is thrilled to see Leah.  

The children greet us with giggles and hugs and a few proudly pronounced English words.

Deepak. A boy who loves and serves God, even at great personal sacrifice. He owns a special piece of Leah's heart.

The mosquito coil burns all evening, filling the room with a rustic incense.  

Maya's famous momos (steamed, stuffed dumplings), achaar, an extremely spicy, but delightful sauce, vegetables steamed to perfection, and an extra special treat concocted especially for Leah and me: chicken drumsticks, barbecued American style. Maya amazes me!

Lovely.

The ideal Nepali matriarch. From her perch on the bed, she gives out hugs and quiet orders with equal freedom.

Leah and I are served a feast while everyone else waits for cake. Leah is experienced. She finishes her first plate and accepts another and another, all while chatting merrily in Nepali and interpreting for me. It's a good thing I'm not required to talk. I'm busy enough making this delicious, but overabundant food disappear!

When our dinners are complete, Maya brings out Leah's "alchi" cake. Alchi means lazy, and is Maya's teasing description of the store-bought mix Leah used to bake it.

"You're one year old, Maya!" Leah jokes in Nepali. We all laugh together and then sing "Happy Birthday" in two languages, at the top of our lungs.

Everyone gets to join the celebration at cake time.

"Ama"(mother) leans in and tweaks Leah's nose. "You're so cute!" Leah laughs. Ama reminds Leah that she is missing her teeth.

A lot of happy people live in this room!

Pepsi and Mountain Dew for everyone!

The kids admire my locket.

They carefully repeat the names. "Lee, Will, Reagan, Marc . . ." They give up when I say "Baby Olivia."

 

"Are they your children?" "No, they are my sisters' children." Leah explains in Nepali and then informs me it would be perfectly appropriate for me to claim my niece and nephews as my own, and would not imply I'm actually their mother. I like it.

We sit and exchange stories late into the evening. Most of the tales recount the hilarious experiences of working in the homes of the more fortunate.

Maya is chief story-teller. It takes her twice as long as it should, because every account has to be retold to me in English. But no one seems to mind. 

As the evening winds down, Maya's new husband Birbahadur arrives home. He is courteous and genteel and makes an effort to welcome us with English phrases and western etiquette.

"May I take your picture?" Maya seems both proud and shy. And very happy.

The older children walk us back to the car with a flashlight. Deepak wants to tell me something and asks Leah to help him. He reaches up and puts his arm around me as he speaks. Leah interprets: "He says he will pray for you." Leah doesn't have to tell me he really will.

L.